POINTE SAINT-MATHIEU

In the grim month of January…

we were back in Plouguerneau to find somebody who can deliver and install new doors for our Sandpiper Cottage by the Sea. And yes, beside a heavy storm, rain and darkness, we had a couple of sunny and warm days, so we decided to go on a day trip to a new destination on the “le sentier des douaniers”or GR34. The name was given because it was once a path that allowed customs officers to travel along the Brittany coast to prevent smuggling, today its a peaceful hiking trail frequented for the beauty of its landscapes.

We went to Pointe Saint-Mathieu in the community of Plougonvelin near to Le Conquet (departure point for a trip to Ouessant and Molène). One hour away by car from Sandpiper Cottage by the Sea, Pointe Saint-Mathieu is a perfect day trip for hiking near the steep cliffs battered by the sea and wind. From here starts a 12.9 kilometer roundtrip hike to Pointe Créac’hmeur. The region is part of the entrance to the harbour of Brest and therefore a great place for spotting all in-and out-going sea vessels and fishing boats. The nature however, is stunning and was the main reason to come here for our day trip.

David and I both like lighthouses

so we started our hike to discover the lighthouse first and then the old Abbey. The current lighthouse was built in 1835 among the ruins of the ancient Abbey and indicates the route for entrance to Brest harbour via the “Goulet de Brest”. The first “lighthouse” was set up in 1692 and was actually just a light in the tower of the Abbey.  The Abbey “Saint Mathieu de Fine-Terre” dates back to the 6th century and was, as the legend says, founded by Saint Tanguy. What a coincident that our local material provider’s name is Tanguy as well!! 

We continued our hike and passed the cross that indicates the departure of the pilgrimage path to  Compostela. Following the GR34 eastwards David pointed out an unusual bunker with an incredible sea view. The location would make a cosy nice little bar or restaurant. But certainly forbidden by the ‘loi littoral’. We know that law by heart. I particularly liked the graffiti on the bunker.

Later on we discovered some ruins

from former seaweed farming. In France, seaweed gathering dates back to Neolithic times… although I won’t go into THAT long history.  Seaweed was collected by hand in the intertidal zone at low tide and was pulled up the cliffs by the gathers called “goémoniers”. These stone constructions are still visible clinging to the edge of the cliffs. The hike then passes through a couple of inlets up and down the coast with peaceful nature on one side and the wild sea with rough cliffs on the other side.

Next Time

at low tide we would like to discover the tidal pools and little beaches along the hiking route and will have a picnic between the cliffs. And yes, we finally found the right entry doors for our cottage. Hopefully the dutch doors (portes fermiéres) will be installed this spring.

Here are two links to help you get started for more activities:

Le Sentier des Douaniers

Musée Memoires 39—45 Plougonvelin